10 Questions To Ask Before Buying Your First Drum Set

Most of us like to think we’re not too materialistic—but let’s be honest. Some purchases hit us on a deeper level. Think back: your first car, your first computer, your first smartphone. And for musicians, nothing compares to your first drum set. Sure, drumming is about the music, but let’s face it: choosing the gear, setting it up, and slowly refining your setup is half the fun.

If you’re getting ready to buy your first kit, you’re probably buzzing with excitement—and maybe a little uncertainty. Don’t worry, this quick guide will help answer the questions every new drummer faces.

1. HOW MANY & WHICH ONES?

Drum sets come in all shapes and sizes. Some drummers keep it lean—a kick, snare, hi-hat, and a single crash/ride cymbal. Others go all-out with multiple kicks, racks of toms, and walls of cymbals. There are no rules, just preferences.

That said, most beginners start with a 4- or 5-piece kit, which covers the essentials and works across most styles of music. Once you’re more experienced, you can expand your setup to match your style.

2. WHAT DRUM SIZES SHOULD I GET?

Drums have “standard” sizes that have held steady over the years:

Bass drums: 20″×14″, 22″×16″, or 22″×18″ are most common.

Snare drums: Typically 14″ diameter, with depths from 5″ to 6.5″.

Toms: Ranges vary—10″×7″, 12″×8″, and 16″×16″ are typical examples.

But here’s the thing: sizing isn’t set in stone. Trends change, and many drummers experiment with depths or shell designs to find their sound.

Another key factor? Portability. Acoustic kits can be bulky, especially if you’re gigging often. That’s where compact solutions shine. For instance, the Beatello Jungle PAD features ultra-thin shells—the slimmest pad is only 1.5 inches thick—making it easy to slip into your car trunk and take anywhere. Perfect for rehearsals, traveling gigs, or even street performances.

3. WHICH CYMBALS WILL I NEED?

Think of Ringo Starr’s Ludwig kit on the Ed Sullivan Show—a timeless example of a minimalist setup. He used just what most beginners actually need: a crash cymbal, a ride cymbal, and a pair of hi-hats.

Standard crash cymbals usually fall between 16″–20″, rides between 20″–23″, and hi-hats between 13″–15″. Of course, you can go smaller or larger—an 8″ splash cymbal, for instance, can be fun for accents but won’t give you the same versatility as a solid 18″ crash. Many drummers also add effect cymbals—Chinas, bells, or swishes—for extra character once their budget allows.

If you’re starting out, affordability and quality both matter. Beatello offers a budget-friendly cymbal series under $100, perfect for beginners who want to build their first setup without breaking the bank. For drummers looking for richer tones and professional performance, the Beatello B25 cymbal line delivers premium sound and durability to match higher-level demands.

4. WHAT ABOUT HARDWARE?

Until we master the art of levitation, every drum set still needs hardware—stands for cymbals, a hi-hat stand, a snare stand, pedals, and a drum throne. Some kits include hardware for mounting a rack tom directly onto the bass drum, but many don’t. In those cases, you’ll need a separate stand. Combo stands (that hold both a tom and a cymbal) are a smart option since they reduce stage clutter, cost less than buying two stands, and make your hardware bag a lot lighter.

If you plan to take your kit out for rehearsals or gigs, portability becomes a big factor. Choose sturdy but not overly heavy hardware—you want gear that will survive the road, but you don’t want to feel like you’re hauling gym equipment every night. And don’t overlook the throne: a stable, comfortable drum throne is one of the best long-term investments you can make. Drumming means hours of sitting, and a wobbly seat will ruin your focus (and your back).

5. HOW MUCH WILL IT COST?

The short answer: it depends. Drums, cymbals, and hardware are usually sold separately, but beginner kits often bundle hardware—and sometimes even cymbals—into an all-in-one package. These bundles are convenient and budget-friendly, but as you move into mid- or pro-level gear, expect to buy each component separately. That’s not a bad thing; it allows you to choose exactly the sound and feel you want.

Entry-level drum kits with hardware and cymbals can be found at very affordable prices, but remember: those are designed for learning and practice, not professional use. If you’re aiming for high-quality sound on stage or in the studio, plan to invest in better shells, pro cymbals, and reliable hardware.

6. CAN I NEGOTIATE?

Surprise: buying drums is a lot like buying a car. The price on the tag isn’t always the final word. Many music stores are open to negotiation, especially if you’re purchasing a full kit or multiple items. The trick is to bargain respectfully—offer a fair price that’s below the sticker, but not insultingly low.

Another tip: check online prices and ask the store if they’ll match or beat them. Many retailers will, especially for brands they carry. It never hurts to ask, and the savings can add up quickly.

7. WHY DO TWO 4-PIECE KITS COST SO DIFFERENTLY?

At first glance, two 4-piece kits might look almost identical. But price differences usually come down to materials and craftsmanship. Higher-end drums use premium woods or metals, undergo more detailed manufacturing, and often include hand-finishing. These details affect not only durability but also sound quality.

Most drum shells are made from woods like maple or birch, while snares often feature metals such as brass, steel, or aluminum. Each material produces a unique tone and feel. Think of it like food: maple drums are the gourmet steakhouse version of ground beef, while budget kits are the fast-food equivalent. Both will feed you, but the quality—and experience—are on a completely different level.

8. NEW OR USED?

Let’s skip the burger analogy—nobody wants a used one anyway. But when it comes to drum kits, buying secondhand can sometimes save you money. Good-quality used sets are often listed in music shops, on eBay, or on local marketplaces like Craigslist. The risk, however, is that if you’re not experienced, you could end up overpaying for a kit that has hidden issues. If you’re set on buying used, it’s best to bring along a seasoned drummer to help you evaluate the drums in person.

Also, be cautious of sales language that can be misleading. Terms like “vintage” may just mean “old and beat-up.” “One-of-a-kind” might really mean “customized in a way no one else wanted.” “Original drumheads” could translate to “never maintained properly.” And phrases like “played by [famous drummer]” are often a tactic to inflate the price without adding real value. Even “beautiful patina” is usually code for “scratched and tarnished.” In short, trust your eyes and common sense—round shells should be perfectly round, finishes should be smooth, and hardware should work as intended.

9. DO I NEED A WARRANTY?

Not always. Most manufacturers provide a basic warranty, and some retailers may offer additional coverage. Unless it’s a great deal, paying extra for an extended warranty isn’t usually necessary. What matters most is the quality of the kit itself—a well-built drum set should stand the test of time with or without a warranty.

That said, if you’re deciding between two similar kits and one comes with stronger warranty support, it can give you extra peace of mind. Just remember: a solid build and reliable materials are always more valuable than paperwork alone.